Ingredient library: what's in LYSANDE® products and why
For every ingredient we tell you what it is and what role it plays in the formula. Our goal is clear, factual information without exaggerated or unsupported claims: we describe the known function of the ingredients, not the effect of the finished products.
Hydrating ingredients
Sodium Hyaluronate
The salt form of hyaluronic acid, a polysaccharide with outstanding water-binding capacity, and the namesake of the Hyaluron line. In LYSANDE® formulas it appears in three molecular sizes: HMW (high), LMW (low) and OLIGO (oligomer, very small). Larger molecules bind water mainly on the skin's surface; smaller ones can also interact with the outer layers of the stratum corneum. Hyaluron Gel contains all three sizes, the face creams HMW and OLIGO, Hyaluron Tonic and Hyaluron Body Lotion HMW. On the INCI list each appears as a single entry, Sodium Hyaluronate, because molecular size cannot be indicated.
Urea and Sodium PCA
Components of the skin's own Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Water-binding ingredients.
Niacinamide
The active, widely used form of vitamin B3; a skin-conditioning ingredient that supports care of the skin barrier.
Panthenol
The provitamin of B5; a hydrating and skin-conditioning ingredient.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
A cosmetic peptide (amino acid chain) modified with a fatty-acid chain; a skin-conditioning ingredient.
Plant butters and oils
Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter)
A plant butter from the seed of the Amazonian murumuru palm, rich in lauric and myristic acid. The defining element of the lipid base of the cream for dry skin.
Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter)
A plant butter from the seed of a tropical tree, containing stearic, palmitic and oleic acid. The basis of the lipid phase of the cream for oily, combination and normal skin.
Mango seed butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter)
A plant butter from the mango seed, rich in fatty acids; an emollient lipid component. One of the key butters of Hyaluron Body Lotion.
Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil)
Actually a liquid wax ester whose structure resembles components of human sebum. Used as an emollient lipid component.
Pomegranate seed oil (Punica Granatum Seed Oil)
A cold-pressed plant oil known for its characteristic fatty-acid profile, including punicic acid.
Camellia seed oil and raspberry seed oil (Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil)
Cold-pressed organic seed oils; raspberry seed oil is rich in vitamin E and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.
Babassu oil and olive oil (Orbignya Oleifera Oil, Olea Europaea Oil)
Oil from the seed of the babassu palm, rich in lauric acid, and oil from the fruit of the olive tree. Both are used as emollient lipid components in cosmetic formulas.
Skin-lipid-type ingredients
Phospholipids, sphingolipids, beta-sitosterol, squalene and tocopherol
Lipid-like ingredients similar in structure to the skin's own lipids and cell membranes. Tocopherol (vitamin E) is an antioxidant that protects the formulas' lipids from oxidation.
Plant extracts and particles
Organic aloe vera juice (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)
A water-based ingredient from the aloe vera leaf, part of the water phase of several LYSANDE® formulas.
Organic tea leaf extract (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract)
A plant extract from the tea leaf, rich in antioxidant compounds. The plant-derived ingredient of Hyaluron Tonic.
Olive seed powder and hibiscus flower powder (Olea Europaea Seed Powder, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Powder)
The mechanical exfoliating particles of Hibiscus Face Scrub. During gentle, circular massage they remove some of the dead skin cells from the skin's surface.
Allantoin
A classic skin-conditioning ingredient in Hibiscus Face Scrub.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
An emulsifying and conditioning ingredient that stabilises the creamy base of Hibiscus Face Scrub. Despite its name, it is not the same as cleansing sulfates.
Scent
The scent of Hyaluron Body Lotion and Natural Deodorant comes from bergamot and patchouli essential oil. Limonene, linalool and citral are natural components of these essential oils. Under certain conditions, EU cosmetics regulation requires some fragrance allergens to be listed on the ingredient list. They can cause allergic reactions in sensitive people; natural origin alone does not mean allergen-free.
Deodorising ingredients
Potassium Alum
A crystalline mineral salt used to prevent odour formation. It does not block sweating.
Triethyl Citrate
A citric acid ester that inhibits the enzymes involved in the formation of body odour.
Xanthan Gum
A thickener of natural origin that gives the deodorant its gel texture.
Emulsifiers and preservation support
Polyglyceryl esters
PEG-free emulsifiers for stable emulsions.
Preservation-support system
Phenethyl alcohol, glyceryl caprylate and gluconolactone: ingredients that support the microbiological stability of the products.
Cetearyl Alcohol
A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabiliser; not the same as drying alcohols.
How to read the INCI list
- Under EU regulation, ingredients are listed in descending order of the amount used; ingredients below 1% may be listed in any order.
- The INCI shows what's in the product, but not the exact concentration or your individual skin reaction.
- It doesn't show molecular size either. Sodium hyaluronate, for example, is listed as Sodium Hyaluronate regardless of size, so we describe the HMW, LMW and OLIGO versions in the product description.
- “Natural” origin alone does not mean allergen-free. Plant extracts and essential oils can also cause individual sensitivity, so it's worth watching how your own skin reacts.
Know what you put on your skin. If you'd like to know more about an ingredient, write to me.
Know what you put on your skin.